Think kebab and what do you think? If you're British, Swedish, Dutch and probably most European nationalities, you probably think of low-rent fast-food outlets staffed by people of middle-eastern descent basically selling food late at night to drunk people.

Believe me, I've tried to eat a doner kebab from Kebab King in Wigan sober, and it's not a pleasant experience. Actually, it's not that great an experience drunk - as the mountain of half-eaten kebabs in any town centre on a Saturday morning will testify. Keeps the rats happy though.

Here in Paris, however, it's a different story. At least if you live or work on the swanky Avenue George V. Just down the road from my office is a very posh Lebanese restaurant called Al Diwan. And next door is itsdelicatessen, which doubles at lunchtime as a kebab shop.

But it's no kebab shop you know. the staff are immaculately suited, and drip both lebanese charm and expensive gold. The kebabs are to die for, n'all - and when my French is better I'll try some off the other stuff.

Mmmm... other stuff...